Monday 16 February 2015

And so it all began...we met with Roberto..he was going to be our "Go to"... the man with the inside scoop....Roberto was born and raised in Guardia...he knows the town inside out...he knows every person...every alley...and most importantly...every house that could possible be for sale. :)

The BIG question people ask after realizing that we really are going to Italy and we REALLY are going to buy a house is...."What's the hitch?" Why are they so cheap? With house prices ranging from 5000 euros to 100,000+ there must be more to it than meets the eye....what is Guardia Sanframondi's story...
Photo Credit Garrick Maguire

You see...it all began back in the 80's...the 1980's....Guardia was hit by an earthquake, more than one to be precise, but none the less the town was shaken to its core...some of the older houses, we are talking hundreds of years old after all...collapsed...or sustained significant damage..the Centro Historico was inhabited mostly by folks that were born and raised there...this frightened many as they were concerned for their safety and the historical center of the town began to become empty...desolate....many left with just the clothes on their backs and moved to newer homes or left completely....many of the houses you can view in Guardia will be, at least, partially furnished and many will still have groceries in the cupboards...untouched for years...it is odd to tour some of these houses and see them just as they were left....some with a calendar with a 1980;s page still fluttering at the bottom...


Just remember...this is a journey that will touch your soul...you will feel a chill as you enter a house..a home...perhaps not entered for years...the roof may leak...there could be puddles on the floors...perhaps no indoor plumbing...but if you feel it..TRULY GET IT...that will not matter...that moment when you walk into a home...empty for years yet you can see the nonna in the kitchen working at preserving the years harvest of big red tomatoes and you can hear the children playing near the fire while their papa tells them a story....

Imagine a house with a vine...growing from the house...
Grapes hanging in clusters....

You never know what to expect behind every door you pass


Not everyone "Gets It"...and that's ok....but when you walk into "THE HOUSE" the one that speaks to you...that brings a tear to your eye...that (as a friend told me)..."Made her heart sing!" You know you are in THE ONE....If you don't get it....that's ok...move on...its not for you...but if you look past the dust...the rubble...the broken tile,,and instead see a tile that is literally hundreds of years old..if you can close your eyes and just imagine the people that have walked across that floor...if you can think to your self..."My God....My house is older than Shakespeare"...then your journey has begun....

With street and alleys going in EVERY direction you need to truly explore them all....
Streets that are paved in White Marble...we marvel at this..to them it is simply the way it is...

Built on a hill Guardia offers a panoramic view of the valley and mountains

We settled in to our accommodations  after a full explanation from our gracious host Pasquale Orso..he showed us how everything worked and we were set...feeling slightly jet lagged we felt it best to take a break...a quick nap first...we were planning on meeting up with our new friends (That we had only spoken with on line, through Facebook...BTW...Facebook is the essential tool to bring it all together for you...if you have issues with the "Book Of Face" get over it! Use this tool to its fullest!!)  But..I digress....So we laid down...I sent a text message to my new found BFF, Patsy, and said we would meet at 7:30...and that was it...we drifted off and fell into a deep and peaceful sleep...SIX hours later we awoke to a strange buzzing in the house and by the time I finally clued in that it was the door buzzer and got to the door our friends were almost gone...I stuck my head out and there they were...Joe was there with his son and two daughters and of curse...my main chatter..Patsy...We all hugged and talked in the entrance...it was raining that night and still we were all so happy....I dragged Derrick down to the door to meet my (our) new found famiglia and we all decided we would opt out on dinner for the evening and meet the next day to discuss our finding...there was laughter...there was tears...its was all good and all felt so right!

I can always get my bearings by looking for the church tower


This next part of my story will be a smattering of photos and some explanations...we started "The HUNT!"  It was not the best of weather..overcast and gloomy...but not raining...we were ok with that...Roberto was in true Italian Style...bubbling and excited...ready to show us his town...the one that he is SO PROUD of...it makes you feel good just to be around him...sure...we may not understand everything he says...but what he expresses to you with his eyes and gestures as you tour his town and houses...you get it....

As you tour the houses you go in open minded....virtually anything is possible...anything you ask Roberto...the answer is ..Si..Si..Is Possible.....I remember looking at one house (apartment) which is not the beautifully renovated home of friend Leila, Roberto, believing that all Americans wanted lots of bathrooms....he stood in the middle of the living room and pointed at walls that should be moved...and said.."BAM...BAM...BAM"...and then pointed where a bathroom should be and shouted..."BAGNO...BAGNO...BAGNO!" I remember we jumped the first time we heard him speak like this...but this is his hyper personality...his willingness to please...anything is possible in Roberto's world...and bless his heart...he will do EVERYTHING to make sure it happens in yours. we love him immensely for all he has done for us....and for many many others...

Which brings forth the question why?...why does he do this...why is he so passionate about this...he is not a real estate agent...he does not sell anyone a house...he brings people together with sellers...he shows us houses we would have never seen...he asks for nothing in return..he doesn't ask for money...his reward is in the faces of people who "get It" (I use this term often throughout my blog...as I am so sad when someone doesn't "Get It") Roberto remembers a centro historico that had children playing and running in the streets,,,flowers hanging from windows and people taking pride in their homes...for years the streets were empty...windows broken and boarded over...planters bare...and empty...slowly..it it coming back...again I digress....

A Piccola Casa! Perfetto!

BAM!  BAM!   BAM!  :)



What a wonderful little house this was....if you look closely at the last photo you can see the outline of an arch that was possibly a doorway into part of the castle....do you see the basement (Cantina) door on the outside...imagine that cantina being transformed into a kitchen with it;s fireplace and pizza oven remaining... a spiral staircase would take you up to the next level where you would knock out the wall between the old living room and kitchen making a fabulous Great Room" with a fireplace in the corner...installing bathrooms on the two bedrooms also on this level..BAGNO BAGNO!! The roof repaired to stop the water infiltration....overlooking one of the oldest churches in the area....I can see it! And now Rebecca And Danny will see it...this is there soon to be FABULOUS project! (Ok....I also love the word fabulous.....

Then the rain started..it poured...no umbrellas..we grabbed old wicker baskets and held them over our heads...the water...pouring through them...releasing dirt and dust that had been untouched for decades....when we finally reached a dry area we looked like sad raccoon's with dirt and water running down or faces....sadly or luckily the camera battery was dead at this point...

Cantinas...untouched for years!

Guardia at night

We crawled through many houses....climbed over broken walls...and then dinner.....the one night we went to our now favourite haunt, Le Meridiana...now understand...many look at the language Barrier as a difficulty....we look at it only as a challenge! We sat and saw FOUR pages of hand made pizza..all cooked in a wood fired pizza oven...how else would an Italian cook a pizza!!??  We tried to understand the pricing..as the pizzas listed started at only 3 euros....finally we cam to the conclusion they were either 6 or 9 inch and more of a "Personal" size...we both ordered our pizza....fresh hand made tomato sauce with boccocini   cheese and fresh basil....needless to say you can imagine our surprise when we were each served a FIFTEEN INCH pizza...and yes...we ate the whole thing...a crisp thin crust...it was heavenly!!
You would eat as the Italians do...fold the slice together to eat...a fork and knife?  Eegads!!

The locals dine here so you KNOW it's a great place!...Did I mention a glass of wine is A BUCK!!!!???

And then finally we saw it...the house....we felt it....it was built in a former turret of the castle....round rooms...skylights through the ceilings that were also rounds....cantinas that went on for days...made you think of prisoners being held there in the 1500's...
Entrance to the "Turret House"

One of the any underground Cantinas

A "Spirale" staircase leads to a round room upstairs

Many houses are built from one BIG original house ...so you may share an entrance

We felt this was the one..."The Turret House" we immediately called it...so much character...we went from room to room...it was owned by two sisters,,,,inherited from a family member...now being watched over by the two sons...
A fireplace/woodstove with the pipe going into the wall...simple

A round room....who'da thought?...



We couldn't believe we had fund our Italian home....now for the negotiations and to put it all on paper!! We had found it!! Or had we?......We sat with Roberto over drinks in the sunshine and made up our offer...fair and to the point! They would want to sell this house as they had said...then THE BUMP IN THE ROAD!

A bite to eat at the Orso's B&B...yes it's as good as it looks!

Guardia Sanframondi...pop just over 5000....experience the Magica!






3 comments:

  1. Can you believe it I'm reading it again Glenn :) Thank you for mentioning my name....very handsome of you <3

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  2. Although it may seem to be unbelievable....it is absolutely true and all of the house buying was done in a week.

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  3. Glenn how can I reach you? I am planning a trip in October and would love to speak with you before I go

    ReplyDelete